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| View of the seven tiered pyramid at Koh Ker |
Koh Ker Called (Khmer: Prasat Koh Ker) is a remote archaeological site in northern Cambodia about 120 kilometres (75 mi) away from Siem Reap and the ancient site of Angkor. It is a very jungle filled region that is sparsely populated. More than 180 sanctuaries were found in a protected area of 81 square kilometres (31 sq mi).Only about two dozen monuments can be visited by tourists because most of the sanctuaries are hidden in the forest and the whole area is not fully demined.
Koh Ker is the modern name for an important city of the Khmer empire. In inscriptions the town is mentioned as Lingapua (city of lingams) or Chok Gargyar (sometimes translated as city of glance,sometimes as iron tree forest).
Under the reign of the kings Jayavarman IV and Harshavarman II Koh Ker was briefly the capital of the whole empire (928–944 AD). Jayavarman IV forced an ambitious building program. An enormous water-tank and about forty temples were constructed under his rule. The most significant temple‑complex, a double sanctuary (Prasat Thom/Prang), follows a linear plan and not a concentric one like most of the temples of the Khmer kings. Unparalleled is the seven‑tiered and 36-metre (118 ft) high pyramid, which most probably served as state temple of Jayavarman IV. Really impressive too are the shrines with the two‑meter 6 ft 7 in high lingas.
Under Jayavarman IV the style of Koh Ker was developed and the art of sculpture reached a pinnacle. A great variety of wonderful statues were chiselled. Because of its remoteness the site of Koh Ker was plundered many times by looters. Sculptures of Koh Ker can be found not only in different museums but also in private collections. Masterpieces of Koh Ker are offered occasionally at auctions. These pieces in present times are considered stolen art.
The site is about two and half hours away from Siem Reap, and basic visitors' facilities are now being built. This makes Koh Ker very attractive for anyone who would like to experience lonely temples partly overgrown by the forest.
Since 1992 the site of Koh Ker is on the UNESCO tentative world heritage list.
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| Ancient script from the ruins of Koh Ker |
History
Jayavarman IV
Jayavarman IV ruled from 928 to 941 at Koh Ker. Probably he was a local king at this remote site (his homeland?) before he became king of the whole empire. That could explain why he preferred to has his residence at Koh Ker and not at Roluos (Hariharalaya) or at Yashodharapura (Angkor) like the kings before him. Some historians think that Jayavarman IV was an usurper. But the majority of them say that he was a legal ruler and could ascend the throne because he married a half-sister of king Yasovarman I (889 – 900). It seems to be sure, that the two sons of Yasovarman I (Harshavarman I, who ruled from 900 to 922 and Isanavarman II, who ruled from 922 to 925?) had no children. In the short time as Jayavarman IV reigned in Koh Ker an ambitious building program was realised. That was only possible because of a restrictive system of raising taxes as inscriptions say. About 40 temples, the unique seven-tiered pyramid and a huge baray (water-reservoir) were built. Under Jayavarman IV the Koh Ker-style was developed and the art of sculpture reached a pinnacle.
Harshavarman II
After the decease of Jayavarman IV not the designated prince became his follower. Harshavarman II (another son of Jayavarman IV) claimed the throne. Like his father he ruled at Koh Ker (941 – 944) but after three years he died; probably it was not a natural decease. No temples at Koh Ker can be ascribed to him. His follower on the throne (a cousin of his) went back to Roluos (Hariharalaya).
Koh Ker after 944 AD
Architecture
Even after 944 as the capital of the Khmer Empire had changed back to the plains north of the Tonle Sap-lake some more temples were built at the site of Koh Ker. At the beginning of the 13th century the last sanctuary was realised there. Under Jayavarman VII the Prasat Andong Kuk a so-called hospital-chapel was built (one of more than 100 of hospital-sanctuaries of this ruler).
History of research
19th century
In the second half of the 19th century, the French researchers Lunet de Lajonquière and Étienne Aymonier came to Koh Ker. They saw the main temple-complex Prasat Thom/Prang, the Baray and a group of linga-shrines. They also discovered a few subsections of a chaussée (i.e. highway) with a breadth of more than 8 m (26 ft). They supposed that a road once connected Koh Ker with Wat Phu (today in southern Laos). In about 1880 members of a French expedition arrived at Koh Ker and looted numerous statues and reliefs. These pieces are now in the Musée Guimet in Paris.
20th century
At the beginning of the 20th century art historians realised that a full-fledged style was developed at Koh Ker. Georges Coedès concluded from inscriptions that Koh Ker was capital of the Khmer empire (928 – 944 AD) under the reign of Jayavarman IV and his follower Harshavarman II. In the 1930s again French researchers came to Koh Ker. They discovered numerous monuments and counted finally fifty sanctuaries in an area of 35 square kilometres (8,649 acres). Henry Parmentier made a number of masterful drawings. After an interruption because of the reign of terror of the Khmer rouge research at Koh Ker continued (by APSARA, French, Japanese and Australian scientists).
21st century
At the beginning of the 21st century scientists concluded that not all of the monuments could have been built in the short time when Koh Ker was capital of the Khmer empire (928 – 944 AD). A new era started at Koh Ker as photographs made by satellites were analysed. In 2004 the protected area was extended to 81 square kilometres (31 sq mi; 20,016 acres). For five years Japanese researchers explored and described 184 monuments (including the exact position). The Australian researcher Damian Evans and his team were able to verify Lajonquière's theory that there once was a Khmer route between Koh Ker and Wat Phu, probably the most important strategic road of the Khmer empire.
Religion
Before Koh Ker became capital of the Khmer empire (928 AD) numerous sanctuaries with Shiva-lingas existed already. Koh Ker was a cult site where Shiva had been worshipped a long time. Also Jayavarman IV was an ardent worshipper of this Hindu god. As later kings (whose residence was not in Koh Ker) changed from Hinduism to Buddhism they gave orders to make the necessary adjustments at their temples. Because of its remoteness fortunately the sanctuaries at Koh Ker were spared from these interventions.
Inscriptions
Several inscriptions were found which mention Koh Ker as capital of the empire so in Siem Reap, Battambang, Takeo and Kampong Cham (city).From inscriptions discovered at Koh Ker one can conclude that more than ten thousand people lived at Koh Ker when it was capital (928 – 944 AD). The inscriptions explain too how manpower was organised: taxes in form of rice were raised in the whole country and served to provide the workers who came from different provinces. An inscription at Prasat Damrei says that the shrine on the top of the state temple (Prang) houses a lingam of about 4.5 m (14 ft 9 in) and that the erection of this Shiva-symbol gave a lot of problems. A Sanskrit inscription at Prasat Thom gives evidence of the consecration of a Shiva-lingam 921 AD which was worshipped under the name of Tribhuvaneshvara ("Lord of the Threefold World" (Jacques 2007).
Style of Koh Ker
None of the immense, expressive and beautiful sculptures are left at the site. Numerous of them were stolen and are standing now in museums and also in private collections. Some statues were put away by government organizations to protect them from looters. Many masterpieces of Koh Ker are now in the collection of the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
In late 2011, the remote location drew media attention worldwide when Sotheby's attempted to sell a statue of a mythical Khmer Empire warrior. In March 2012, the US and Cambodian governments filed court documents to seize the statue that they purport was illegally removed from the site. A twin statue, also linked to the Koh Ker site, is on display at the Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena, California.
Ancient city Koh Ker
The center of the ancient city was in the north-east corner of the baray (water-tank). As inscriptions say at least ten thousand inhabitants lived there during the rule of Jayavarman IV. Some authors speak about a square wall with a side length of 1.2 km (1,312 yd) which should have protected the town. But new researches indicate, that the linear structures (some parallel, some rectangular) found in this part of Koh Ker were dykes of ancient canals. Concerning the wooden buildings of the Khmer time no artefacts are found.
Laterite, sandstone and brick were used as construction materials in Koh Ker. Laterite and sandstone of excellent quality were quarried in great quantities in the region of Koh Ker. So the transport of stones was no problem. The bricks produced were small, regular and very solid. A thin layer of organic mortar (plant sap?) of unknown formula was used. After more than a millennium the brick sanctuaries in Koh Ker are in a much better condition than the laterite ones. The roofs of some temples in Koh Ker had a wood construction and were covered with tiles. In these monuments one can find the holes for the girders. The main sanctuary (the temple-complex Prasat Thom/Prang) was not standing in the middle of the ancient city.
Reference
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